The Forest Monks
By Greg Harris
Earth Island Journal
Winter 2024
In Thailand, practicing monastic selflessness can sometimes also mean taking on the mantle of land defenders.
IT’S 5:50 AM AND I’M IN Chaiyaphum province, Thailand, following a single-file column of russet-robed monks as they tread barefoot down the red-dirt road that runs between their monastery and the nearby village. The first greetings of the day are all of the canine variety. Farm dogs look up from nipping fleas to bark at the monks as they wind their way through the dawn. The monks are accompanied by their own companions, four scruffy dogs that hang around the monastery and seem to have appointed themselves the monks’ guardians. When one of the farm dogs gets a little too excited, baring its fangs and developing a raw edge to its bark, the monastery mutts swiftly pin it onto its back.